🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.